Berlin
Communism and Democracy Collide
Ever since I was a kid learning about communism and history from WWII and the cold war, I have been interested in learning about and visiting Berlin, Germany. Berlin is the capitol of Germany, but it was also mostly destroyed in WWII, and was the center of the division between democracy and communism. The city of Berlin symbolizes the 20th century and the struggles millions of people lived for decades. It can be scene from the paint on the most famous and controversial wall in modern history.
As my friends and I marked off the sites we wanted to see in Berlin, we realized that the wall was outside of the city center. We took the subway into a different world. The modern Berlin in the west is rarely found in the east. East Berlin was the capitol of East Germany and was under soviet control until the late 1980’s and early 1990’s. The east is still suffering from poverty and pollution, and it can be scene all around the city. The wall that was built by the soviets in the 1960’s started to be torn down in 1989, opening up a city that was divided and controlled for decades.
Today, nearly 20 years after the fall of the wall, a long stretch of the façade facing east is the only strip still left for visitors and residents alike to see history. It is painted with artwork that reflects the pain the people of the city dealt with, as well as the pain they still feel today.
I had no idea what I was going to see at the wall. When we arrived after getting off the train, all I saw was a run down neighborhood that was littered and decrepit. Once we walked toward the river, we could see a wall full of artwork. We had arrived at the east side gallery, which is over a kilometer long, and is the largest open-air gallery in the world. The artwork symbolizes the history of Berlin. Many of the works include references to former leaders, the hammer and sickle, and other icons that relate to the history of Berlin and Germany.
One of the most iconic symbols in the era of eastern and western Berlin is the Brandenburg gate, which split the city in half, and became a gate to nowhere. This is where president Reagan made his famous “Tear down this wall” speech. Less than a year later, the wall fell. Today, one can still see the effects of the wall on the streets and buildings. A red brick line lies in the ground where the wall once stood. The area around the wall, especially where the wall once stood are streets, parks and modern buildings today.
I have truly never been so affected by something so simple. Every time I go to a museum to see art, I appreciate it but I never have ever just stared and said “wow.” The wall, and the artwork associated with it, is a simple reminder of the magnitude history has had on Berlin. When I turned a corner of the wall, the words “No more wars, no more walls, a modern world” were on the façade. I was touched by this phrase because few cities in the world have experienced more pain than the city of Berlin. The Fernsehturm tower stands in visible distance from the east side gallery, which is a building built by the soviets in East Berlin. The tower overlooks the city as a reminder of the painful past in Berlin history. Territory was so fiercely defended in this city that a wall was built that separated families and friends of the same city. The wall is one of the most symbolic monuments of the 20th century and its destruction 20 years ago has not been forgotten.
In modern Berlin today, the buildings are modern and the economy is powerful, but the lack of historic buildings left in the city are overshadowed by the Fernsehturm as a symbol of the painful history Berlin deals with every single day.
The Wall
Berlin is the capital city of Germany and an important city in the in the twentieth century. Berlin has a lot of monuments and attractions that bring tourists to its majestic city, from theReichstag to theBrandenburg Gate. Though Berlin is privileged to have many sites the most important and controversial is the Berlin Wall, one of the most controversial borders/walls in modern history. Not only dividing the people of the city, but the culture as well.
The Berlin Wall was the product of the struggle of power between NATO and the Warsaw Pact. After the Allies defeated the Axis Powers the capitol city was split into 4 territories. The four main members of the Allies had a share in the city. The United States, France, and Great Britain controlled the West side of Berlin and the Soviet Union controlled the East. In 1961 tensions between NATO and the USSR exploded. As a result a wall was built to divide the city in two territories, East and West. Consequently a whole country and a lot of families were split up for decades.
Traveling to see the Berlin wall on the metro, it was extremely easy to distinguish the two sides. The East looked as though the buildings were not well kept and aged. Towards the West I saw a very modern and well-kept city. There were several skyscrapers. Standing at this border of what seems to be two different cities it is very obvious to see the distinction of communist and capitalistic cities. Looking back on what I experienced I realized that East Berlin is experiencing urbanization as a result of the wall. Additionally, there was a lot of construction happening in East Berlin. An attempt to match the beauty of the city's better half.
Once I had the wall in my sites, it seemed as though it stretched for miles. The wall extremely artistic underlined with political messages. Many of the messages proposed for peace others called for political independence. One of my favorite murals on the Berlin Wall was this (click here). I feel as though it represents the search for peace in East Germany, but the dove cannot find it because it is chained to the prisoner.
After looking at the wall I felt as though I lived history because after taking many classes on European history I felt as though I completely understood what the Berlin Wall stood for. The Berlin wall taught me that reading about
Luckily, I was fortunate enough to meet some locals in Berlin and they gave me an insight on the repercussions on the wall. One man explained to me that there was a division among Germans until 2006 when the World Cup took place in Germany. He also mentioned that until 2006, many Germans did not consider themselves as Germans and only referred to themselves as one of the states of Germany. Additionally many Germans did not know the national anthem as well.
As a result of visiting the Berlin Wall I feel as thought it could be used as a symbol of unification instead of division, as it had been used in the past. Many Germans could see it as something in common no matter what side they grew up on, they both were confined to where they could travel in their country.
A Collision of Worlds
As someone who has been taking German classes in one way or another for the better part of six years now, I simply could not turn down the opportunity to spend a weekend exploring two of Germany’s most famous cities: Berlin and Munich. Berlin is a capital city steeped in history, both glorious and infamous, and Munich exudes a character that few other destinations in the world can match. Although I had already spent some time in both of these cities two years ago, I felt like going back a second time could give me somewhat of a different perspective on both places. After my first visit, I had found Munich to be much more interesting and charming than Berlin, but I feel like that feeling has somewhat changed the second time around. Munich is still a city better suited to finding a truly ‘German’ experience, but I feel like I have a much greater respect for all of the history surrounding Berlin after going back for a second trip. Standing in front of the Brandenburg Gate where the wall used to stand and seeing the Reichstag right next to it, I could just feel the historical magnitude of that one single location.
The Reichstag (German Parliament building), right next to the Brandenburg Gate, is a symbol for the German people. Originally opened in 1894, it has served as the home to the German government at different points throughout history, with the notable exceptions of Berlin Wall years and the Third Reich. After a 1933 fire, which provided opportunity for increased Nazi control, the building was severely damaged, and after heavy bombing during WWII it was virtually destroyed. The Reichstag was never completely restored until after the reunification of Germany on October 3, 1990, and it didn’t begin housing Parliament again until 1999. One interesting feature of the building’s architecture after restoration is a clear dome that was placed over the room where the German Parliament conducts all of its activities. The dome is open to the public, provides a panoramic view of the city, and allows the people to actually see their government in action. From a symbolic standpoint, it represents transparency and the constant desire of the German people and government to atone for their past mistakes. (http://rol.vn/weben/chuyende/thegioi/2009/10/19/031444/975/) It shows the willingness of the people to make sure that an entity like the National Socialists is never again allowed to rise to prominence. Ever since I began taking German classes six years ago, I’ve always found it interesting that we as Americans tend to still view the Germans in a negative light because of their past. I am certainly guilty of making some of the same jokes as everyone else, but with that said, I think we all need to have a better understanding of what Germany has gone through and the actions they are taking to make sure that their past never again becomes their present. Today’s Germans understand what it means to be free perhaps better than any American ever can, and I feel like we need to give them a little bit of credit for that.
Standing in the middle of Berlin at the location where the Wall once stood, it becomes very easy to see the differences in development between the East and the West. It’s interesting how a border like the Berlin Wall caused people who had shared a common culture for centuries prior to grow so far apart in just under thirty years. It was the border between the two dominant forces of the 20th Century: Western capitalism and Soviet communism, and the success of the former compared to the latter is quite evident. Germany has actually experienced quite a bit of difficulty since reunification in adapting the citizens of the former East to the nation’s capitalist economy, and it continues to be an issue even today. ( http://german-history.suite101.com/article.cfm/the-asymmetry-of-german-reunification) It’s incredibly interesting how one border could cause such a large shift in such a relatively short period of time.
To me, Berlin is the city that best represents every major event of the 20th Century. It symbolizes a war which changed literally everything that all of us understand about the world and its workings. It symbolizes the Cold War and the tensions between capitalism and communism. It symbolizes a people and their ever-enduring desire to put to rest the stain of the Nazi party and become one with the rest of the Western world. The historical context of the city is simply overwhelming, and it’s a place that I feel to be one of the top destinations in Europe.
Neuschwanstein: The Dream Castle
Neuschwanstein took twenty-three years to build and King Ludwig was only able to live in his castle for 72 days until he died in 1886 of an unknown cause. Many of those years of construction were after his death. His castle that he had built was not only gigantic, but it also was very technologically advanced for its’ time during the mid 19th century. The castle had running water through a system where there was a line up in the mountains about the castle and the water would come down from this point and provide
The tourism that this small populated city in Germany has received due to King Ludwig’s castles is astonishing. With over 6,000 guests a day in the summer coming to visit the castles it has really allowed for jobs and economic growth in Schwangau. Due to this, the people have really taken time and have put in 11.2 million euros into maintaining the castles.(http://goeurope.about.com/cs/germany/p/ludwig_castle.htm) While they have dished out quite a large sum, the economic awards have to be worth it, and the castles that were built were so beautiful that 1.3 million people come to visit it every year. Not even Walt Disney, the most famous fairytale writer could create a castle as beautiful as King Ludwig’s Neuschwanstein near Fussen, Germany. Although the day was miserably wet and cold, the visit to see these castles was definitely worth it and it is a tourist site that I would recommend everyone go see!
http://www.letsgo-europe.com/Germany/Neuschwanstein/
Nom Nom Nom- Munich
German tradition and cuisine have been integrated into my life since I was a child. Having grandparents that are basically pure German and Austrian has helped me experience a bit of what it feels like to be German. From celebrating St. Nicholas day (learn more about this tradition: http://www.stnicholascenter.org/Brix?pageID=87 ) to eating/making wiener schnitzel on several occasions throughout the year, I have truly loved that part of my heritage and was excited to finally see the culture first handedly in Munich.
Arriving in Munich that Saturday, I felt both anxious and somewhat exhausted. We had left Prague around 6 am and had arrived in Munich around 3 pm. Not only did the train seem endless but we arrived to find Munich rainy and cold. Having only but a few hours before we would inevitably pass out, we decided to visit the famous Hofbrauhaus for some traditional German cuisine. Located just outside Munich's main city center, the restaurant towers 3 stories high and has multiple indoor and outdoor dining areas including many beer gardens (check out the menu and architecture here: http://www.hofbraeuhaus.de/). Walking into the magnificent restaurant, I suddenly felt overwhelmed. The first floor contained what seemed to be around 60 long tables that sat 10 people each and all seemed to be taken already. As we searched for a table, I noticed almost all of the current customers seemed to be German families rather than tourists. This surprised me because I had heard that it was more of a tourist location. After a few minutes of searching, we were directed to the third floor by a waitress. She was in traditional German dress (shown below and explained in:http://www.about-germany.org/culture/tradfashion.php) and was carrying 6 one liter mugs of beer, her grace was very impressive.
The third floor turned out to be an even larger dining hall with a stage. We were seated parallel to the stage and began our meal by ordering the traditional Munich Beer. Just then, a group of 4 traditionally dressed German couples took the stage. A band, including a harp player, began to play folk music and the couples danced. In the middle of the dance, the boys formed a square on stage and did a series of synchronized rhythmic claps. They used there chests, thighs, and shoes to create a beat that coincided with the music (It looked very similar to this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bv5_FKxABjw&feature=related). After they finished, the dining customers applauded and many even gave a standing ovation. I could definitely tell which customers were German by their facial and overall physical expressions after the performance. This event reminded me of the article we read in geography entitled, "How Soccer Explains the World...” because it shows a historical artifact that has come to shape Germany's national identity. From the food and beer to the dance performance, almost everything in that restaurant signified traditional historic values of Germany.
After enjoying the dance performance and the cold beer, our food had arrived. I had decided on wiener schnitzel and the very sight of it made my mouth water (how to prepare this meal:http://www.ehow.com/how_2054141_make-wiener-schnitzel.html) . It seemed to be one foot of pure deliciousness garnished with lemon. Luckily for me, it looked just as good as it tasted. Just one bite of the savory meat, took me back to my childhood and to the moments when I would indulge in this very meal in my Grandma's kitchen. At that moment, I took a sort of German pride in the food. Even though, I obviously don't live in Germany I still felt at home in the traditional environment and was proud to tell my traveling companions about my German roots.
This experience gave me a first hand look at nationalism and what defines national identity. The traditional cuisine reminded me of the article written by F. Parasecoli that addressed food as a means of creating a sense of nationalism. This restaurant did just that. The menu was purely homemade traditional German cuisine and the pride shown by the German servers/customers was clear. The food was homemade and fresh which shows what types of things the Germans value when preparing their food. In addition, the fact that many of the customers were German families shows that they are trying to preserve traditional values even in more tourist locations. To all future students, I would strongly recommend trying to visit somewhere that means something to your heritage. It is weird the sense of pride you feel for the countries where your ancestors originated.
Munich: A Metropolis of Past and Present
After getting my traveling sea legs underneath me with a trip to Amsterdam, I felt a bit more prepared for my trip to Munich. I knew very little about the city before going, and certainly was not aware of the big city-feel it offers.
Although Munich’s history dates back many hundreds of years, it is most prominently known in the modern mind for its role the first and second World Wars and for being the birthplace of Hitler’s Nazi regime; the beer hall where he first attempted to seize power is located in the city. After heavy damage in WWII, the city was rebuilt but retained most of its original structure. Today it is regarded as one of the safest, cleanest and most thriving cities in Europe.
Although the city may have undergone a dramatic modernization after the war, I recognized a diverse mixing of the past and present that makes Munich a must–see destination for tourists. The atmosphere in Munich is built upon a great pride in the German identity. You can find natives dressing in traditional German clothing while eating original German cuisine in the many beer halls and gardens located throughout the city. Nowhere is this identity more apparent than at the famous Hofbrauhaus. Although regarded by some as being extremely touristy, I got the sense that the crowd was equal parts natives and visitors. The bands, dancers, drinking, and food combine to provide the quintessential German social experience.
A unique aspect of the city that I noticed was a mixing of new and old architectural structures. The Marienplatz is exemplary of this phenomenon. Here you can find the city square with the Old and New Town Halls as well as the famous Glockenspiel. What struck me were the modern stores that have actually been installed within the New Town Hall. I thought such an ornate and visually spectacular structure would remain untouched, but in the vein of Munich’s combination of new and old, shopping is intertwined with a very historical experience. This can be seen along the various “royal aven
On my sobering visit to the Dachauconcentration camp, I gained a greater sense of the modern history for which Munich is so well known. The beautiful, sunny day was no deterrent from giving me feelings of overwhelming sadness and awe during my experience at the camp. Seeing the actual physical structures of the camp helped the Holocaust’s atrocities become much more real and vivid in my mind. Dachau, the first large-scale camp, served as a model for all other camps built during the war. The experimental nature of the camp’s activities provided for shocking and disgusting practices that would be repeated throughout the rest of the Holocaust. The most interesting aspect of my visit to Dachau I found not within the camp itself, but rather when I left. It was hard for me to understand how native Germans, some of whom likely lived during the Nazi reign, could live and raise their children in close proximity to a place that represents such a reprehensible national history, as they do in the suburbs around Dachau. This was just another example of the natural and accepted mixing of past and present indicative of Munich. The people playing basketball a few hundred feet away from the concentration camp simply accept their history as part of their identity, even if it may not be a proud part.
Munich is a modern city with a distinct and rich past. Today it is home to a multitude of foreign populations that contribute to the character of the city through ente
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